We'll be leaving Stewart shortly and heading back down the Cassiar highway. We don't know to where yet, but we're heading south and will probably cross back into the US in Idaho in about 3-4 days. I'm sure we'll find something exciting to do along the way, but hope it doesn't involve dirt roads. Meanwhile, I'll be working on my pictures to put up and wow you with some spectacular scenery. Till then, take care, have fun and be safe.
Ron & Barb
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Monday, June 29, 2009
Skagway to Stewart, BC/Hyder, AK
Saturday, June 27, we left Skagway with an eventual destination of Stewart, BC/Hyder, AK. I'm writing this from Bear River RV Park in Stewart, BC. A very nice park, but slow wifi, so no pictures today.
As I said before, it was raining when we left Skagway and did partially clear up, then rain, then clear up, then....etc. including some wet snow and sleet. The road from Skagway back to the Alaska highway was good. We took a short trip about 7 miles out of the way to see Emerald Lake again. The first time we stopped it was windy and the lake was not very colorful and reflective. This time we caught it just right. The wind and water were calm and the colors really came through. About 20 minutes after we got there, the wind and rain showed up. What timing. New pics of Emerald Lake to follow when we have faster wifi.
The Alaska highway was also very good at this point and was a very pleasant drive except for the occasional rain shower. We finally arrived at the beginning of the Cassiar Highway, PH37. This is the road that takes us to where we are now. The reason we are going this way is to see the grizzly bears in Hyder. We camped for the night at an rv park at the intersection of the Alaska and Cassiar highways.
Sunday, June28, we got back on the Cassiar highway early with hopes of reaching Stewart that evening. The road was bad, then not so bad, then bad again, then really bad, and so on and on for over 100 miles. Barb had been reading the Milepost and came across a road called Telegraph Creek. It said it was a spectacular drive, but not for rv's. We arrived in the town of Dease Lake where the road started, dropped the motorhome off at a gas station and took off on this 70 mile side trip with the Tracker. Of course, it is a gravel road, but a very good one. We were able to run at 50 mph between the curves, which were many and often. It also has steep grades of 18-20% with sharp switchbacks, and we verified this. However, it was quite an amazing drive with deep canyons and fast rivers and spectacular rock formations. Well worth the trip. However, it took us 6 hours to complete the round trip. Seems like very few of the roads up here are through roads. Most we've been on require you to turn around at the end and go back the way you came. The advantage to this is that the scenery can be quite different on the return trip, as was the case on this one.
Till we got hooked back up and ready to go, it was after 6:00 in the evening and we still had a long way to go to Stewart, BC. I drove till 10:00 pm and found an RV park about 100 miles from Stewart and crashed as soon as we were set up. Along the way however, we saw 10 black bears, a lynx and a moose, which crossed the rosd in front of me. Got pictures of the lynx, and some of the black bears, but was not quick enough to shoot the moose.
Monday, June 29, we left early for Stewart and got here about 11:00 this morning. The Cassiar highway had become very good road and travel was pleasant. The drive into Stewart revealed yet another glacier and snow capped mountains. After setting up, we left to tour the area because power was out and was not to be restored till around 2:00pm. We found a restaurant in Stewart that had a generator and gas stove and had a very good breakfast there. We also met a gentleman, Bob Hutch, who was celebrating his 88th birthday. Stil had a very sharp mind and we chatted with him and his 5th wife during breakfast. Got some really good stories from him, and had a few laughs as well.
After breakfast, we headed across the border into Hyder, AK. (More on Hyder later) We suspected and subsequently learned we are about two weeks early for the salmon to come into the area, so we saw no grizzly bears, a disappointment for sure. However, (that's become a favorite word) we went looking for Salmon Glacier. We asked a highway construction worker about it and he said it was a gnarly road to get there, but well worth the trip. He was right on both counts. The road was a disaster, but the views, of not just the glacier, but the surrounding mountains was, well, spectacular. (another of my favorite words, but can't think of another). This time we drove ABOVE the glacier and looked down on it. Plus, Barb got to playing in the snow. (wait till you see those pics) Words cannot describe it, but I hope my pictures, and there are many, do it justice. It took us about 5 hours to make the 23 mile round (of course) trip.
Exhausted, we stopped in the same restaurant for dinner that we had stopped at for breakfast, had a Grizzly Burger (that'll teach em) and are now back in camp looking forward to a good nights rest. I'll be sorting pictures and trying to pick out a few that represent the sights we have seen, but that will be a tough task. As soon as we get decent wifi, I'll be posting them. Till then, take care, have fun and be safe.
Ron & Barb
As I said before, it was raining when we left Skagway and did partially clear up, then rain, then clear up, then....etc. including some wet snow and sleet. The road from Skagway back to the Alaska highway was good. We took a short trip about 7 miles out of the way to see Emerald Lake again. The first time we stopped it was windy and the lake was not very colorful and reflective. This time we caught it just right. The wind and water were calm and the colors really came through. About 20 minutes after we got there, the wind and rain showed up. What timing. New pics of Emerald Lake to follow when we have faster wifi.
The Alaska highway was also very good at this point and was a very pleasant drive except for the occasional rain shower. We finally arrived at the beginning of the Cassiar Highway, PH37. This is the road that takes us to where we are now. The reason we are going this way is to see the grizzly bears in Hyder. We camped for the night at an rv park at the intersection of the Alaska and Cassiar highways.
Sunday, June28, we got back on the Cassiar highway early with hopes of reaching Stewart that evening. The road was bad, then not so bad, then bad again, then really bad, and so on and on for over 100 miles. Barb had been reading the Milepost and came across a road called Telegraph Creek. It said it was a spectacular drive, but not for rv's. We arrived in the town of Dease Lake where the road started, dropped the motorhome off at a gas station and took off on this 70 mile side trip with the Tracker. Of course, it is a gravel road, but a very good one. We were able to run at 50 mph between the curves, which were many and often. It also has steep grades of 18-20% with sharp switchbacks, and we verified this. However, it was quite an amazing drive with deep canyons and fast rivers and spectacular rock formations. Well worth the trip. However, it took us 6 hours to complete the round trip. Seems like very few of the roads up here are through roads. Most we've been on require you to turn around at the end and go back the way you came. The advantage to this is that the scenery can be quite different on the return trip, as was the case on this one.
Till we got hooked back up and ready to go, it was after 6:00 in the evening and we still had a long way to go to Stewart, BC. I drove till 10:00 pm and found an RV park about 100 miles from Stewart and crashed as soon as we were set up. Along the way however, we saw 10 black bears, a lynx and a moose, which crossed the rosd in front of me. Got pictures of the lynx, and some of the black bears, but was not quick enough to shoot the moose.
Monday, June 29, we left early for Stewart and got here about 11:00 this morning. The Cassiar highway had become very good road and travel was pleasant. The drive into Stewart revealed yet another glacier and snow capped mountains. After setting up, we left to tour the area because power was out and was not to be restored till around 2:00pm. We found a restaurant in Stewart that had a generator and gas stove and had a very good breakfast there. We also met a gentleman, Bob Hutch, who was celebrating his 88th birthday. Stil had a very sharp mind and we chatted with him and his 5th wife during breakfast. Got some really good stories from him, and had a few laughs as well.
After breakfast, we headed across the border into Hyder, AK. (More on Hyder later) We suspected and subsequently learned we are about two weeks early for the salmon to come into the area, so we saw no grizzly bears, a disappointment for sure. However, (that's become a favorite word) we went looking for Salmon Glacier. We asked a highway construction worker about it and he said it was a gnarly road to get there, but well worth the trip. He was right on both counts. The road was a disaster, but the views, of not just the glacier, but the surrounding mountains was, well, spectacular. (another of my favorite words, but can't think of another). This time we drove ABOVE the glacier and looked down on it. Plus, Barb got to playing in the snow. (wait till you see those pics) Words cannot describe it, but I hope my pictures, and there are many, do it justice. It took us about 5 hours to make the 23 mile round (of course) trip.
Exhausted, we stopped in the same restaurant for dinner that we had stopped at for breakfast, had a Grizzly Burger (that'll teach em) and are now back in camp looking forward to a good nights rest. I'll be sorting pictures and trying to pick out a few that represent the sights we have seen, but that will be a tough task. As soon as we get decent wifi, I'll be posting them. Till then, take care, have fun and be safe.
Ron & Barb
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Trip to Skagway
Good morning. We're packing up to leave Skagway. It's been a fun place. It's raining right now, but hopefully it will clear up as we move back inland. Here are a few pics of or drive from Whitehorse to Skagway.
This is Emerald Lake. Lighting was not good to show the color.
The Carcross Desert.
Here's some of the unusual glacier landscape.
A neat btidge over the canyon on the way to the US border.
Self explanatory.
Here's a view of Skagway as we drove downtown to our campground.
This is the view out the windshield of the motorhome.......neat, huh.
A couple more shots of downtown Skagway. Reminds us a bit of Dawson City.
We toured around Skagway yesterday, visited a glass blower, and took in some neat scenery on a mountainous dirt road. We had driven back into a National park to see a town and cemetary from a town that had been destroyed back in the gold rush days by an avalanche. There was a short hiking trail through the woods to the cemetary. I had gone down the trail about 40 yards when I heard a grunt or low growl. The underbrush was pretty thick, so I couldn't see very far off the trail. Not having any defensive weapons, I made a hasty retreat back to the car. Shortly thereafter a female ranger stopped and I told her my story. (and I'm stickin' to it) She was making her rounds but said she wasn't going back there either. I'm convinced it was a bear letting me know I was in his territory. I'l be more prepared next time.
Well, we're ready for one last trip downtown before we leave, so till next time, take care, have fun and be safe.
Ron & Barb
This is Emerald Lake. Lighting was not good to show the color.
The Carcross Desert.
Here's some of the unusual glacier landscape.
A neat btidge over the canyon on the way to the US border.
Self explanatory.
Here's a view of Skagway as we drove downtown to our campground.
This is the view out the windshield of the motorhome.......neat, huh.
A couple more shots of downtown Skagway. Reminds us a bit of Dawson City.
We toured around Skagway yesterday, visited a glass blower, and took in some neat scenery on a mountainous dirt road. We had driven back into a National park to see a town and cemetary from a town that had been destroyed back in the gold rush days by an avalanche. There was a short hiking trail through the woods to the cemetary. I had gone down the trail about 40 yards when I heard a grunt or low growl. The underbrush was pretty thick, so I couldn't see very far off the trail. Not having any defensive weapons, I made a hasty retreat back to the car. Shortly thereafter a female ranger stopped and I told her my story. (and I'm stickin' to it) She was making her rounds but said she wasn't going back there either. I'm convinced it was a bear letting me know I was in his territory. I'l be more prepared next time.
Well, we're ready for one last trip downtown before we leave, so till next time, take care, have fun and be safe.
Ron & Barb
Friday, June 26, 2009
Valdez-Tok-Whitehorse-Skagway
We left Valdez on Monday, June 22 and headed back to Tok. The road had not changed from when we went to Valdez and after Glenallen, we were on a stretch of road we had not been on before, and wish we had not seen it. It was a rough ride almost all the way to Tok. Scenery wise, there was not much of it, but I saw a moose cross a river about a quarter mile away but didn't get any pictures.
We arrived in Tok in late afternoon and camped at Tundra RV Park. Spent the night there and took off for Whitehorse in the morning. If you remember from one of my earlier posts, they were working on the Alaska highway in Tok and had done a super job.....for about 40 miles anyway. Gradually the road deteriorated with many frost heaves, but was not the worst we had been on.
As we approached the Canadian border, we could see past Customs that the road was gravel. For several miles we travelled at varying speeds from 15 to 40 creating a lot of dust in some areas and lots of mud slinging in others. The Tracker was coated in a thick layer of mud, and the bottom half of the motorhome looked pretty bad too.
This was the worst we had seen the Alaska Highway, since we had traveled the entire lenght of it. Finally it returned to pavement, but the bumps and frost heaves persisted.
We stopped in Beaver Creek at Buckshot Betty's, a little restaurant set back off the road, and had a great lunch there. We chatted with some folks from Alberta whom we had run into several times in our travels. Nice folks.
I took few pictures during this time until we got to Kluane Lake and Destruction Bay. The lake is absolutely gorgeous with its different shades of green-blue waters. At the far end of the lake, fog was being created by the cold air coming off the snow capped mountains and traveling across the warm (relatively) water. This was in bright sunlight. As we rounded a bend to go around the end of the lake, our reverie came to an abrupt halt. CONSTRUCTION AHEAD! This was the WORST gravel road we had been on to date. It was probably only a kilometer or two, but it took half an hour to get across this stretch. Could only go ten mph or less because of the washboard road. After that, it was bcak to the same old paved road with froat heaves, which were a wlecome sight after that.
We finally arrived in Whitehorse after about 350 miles at 9:30 in the evening (of course, it was still bright daylight) and set up camp at Pioneer RV Park, a place we had stopped at our first time through Whitehorse. We highly recommend this campground, even though it is little more than a gravel parking lot with full hookups and wifi, because it has everything a traveler needs. Car/RV wash, oil change area, great laundry and gift shop and super friendly people. After setting up the motorhome, I took the Tracker to the on-site car wash and cleaned her up, since you could not see out the windows at all. We spent two nights there just chilling out. Barb got caught up on the laundry and I reattached the TV to the base. From all the bouncing and vibration, ALL the screws that held the TV down had come out and the TV was just bouncing around inside the cabinet making a lot of noise right over my head.
Thursday morning, June 25, we left Whitehorse after Barb and I washed the motorhome. We then pointed the motorhome toward Skagway, only about a 100 mile drive. I had said before about the constantly changing scenery, well this was no exception. Just to give you an idea of what we saw, we went through a desert, passed an emerald green lake, and drove through some of the most unusual geography we have seen to date. We then crossed the border back into the US and down into Skagway. I didn't miss many turnouts to take pictures, and hopefully will get them posted before we leave here tomorrow.
Our campground is a paved parking lot with water and electric and paid wifi overlooking the harbor here in Skagway. When we arrived there were four cruise ships in port, and the town was overflowing with people. All four departed during the evening and one pulled in this morning, so town shouldn't be too crowded today. Which, by the way, we are headed to shortly for lunch and some shopping. That brings us up to date, so see you later with some pics.
Till then, take care, have fun and be safe.
Ron & Barb
We arrived in Tok in late afternoon and camped at Tundra RV Park. Spent the night there and took off for Whitehorse in the morning. If you remember from one of my earlier posts, they were working on the Alaska highway in Tok and had done a super job.....for about 40 miles anyway. Gradually the road deteriorated with many frost heaves, but was not the worst we had been on.
As we approached the Canadian border, we could see past Customs that the road was gravel. For several miles we travelled at varying speeds from 15 to 40 creating a lot of dust in some areas and lots of mud slinging in others. The Tracker was coated in a thick layer of mud, and the bottom half of the motorhome looked pretty bad too.
This was the worst we had seen the Alaska Highway, since we had traveled the entire lenght of it. Finally it returned to pavement, but the bumps and frost heaves persisted.
We stopped in Beaver Creek at Buckshot Betty's, a little restaurant set back off the road, and had a great lunch there. We chatted with some folks from Alberta whom we had run into several times in our travels. Nice folks.
I took few pictures during this time until we got to Kluane Lake and Destruction Bay. The lake is absolutely gorgeous with its different shades of green-blue waters. At the far end of the lake, fog was being created by the cold air coming off the snow capped mountains and traveling across the warm (relatively) water. This was in bright sunlight. As we rounded a bend to go around the end of the lake, our reverie came to an abrupt halt. CONSTRUCTION AHEAD! This was the WORST gravel road we had been on to date. It was probably only a kilometer or two, but it took half an hour to get across this stretch. Could only go ten mph or less because of the washboard road. After that, it was bcak to the same old paved road with froat heaves, which were a wlecome sight after that.
We finally arrived in Whitehorse after about 350 miles at 9:30 in the evening (of course, it was still bright daylight) and set up camp at Pioneer RV Park, a place we had stopped at our first time through Whitehorse. We highly recommend this campground, even though it is little more than a gravel parking lot with full hookups and wifi, because it has everything a traveler needs. Car/RV wash, oil change area, great laundry and gift shop and super friendly people. After setting up the motorhome, I took the Tracker to the on-site car wash and cleaned her up, since you could not see out the windows at all. We spent two nights there just chilling out. Barb got caught up on the laundry and I reattached the TV to the base. From all the bouncing and vibration, ALL the screws that held the TV down had come out and the TV was just bouncing around inside the cabinet making a lot of noise right over my head.
Thursday morning, June 25, we left Whitehorse after Barb and I washed the motorhome. We then pointed the motorhome toward Skagway, only about a 100 mile drive. I had said before about the constantly changing scenery, well this was no exception. Just to give you an idea of what we saw, we went through a desert, passed an emerald green lake, and drove through some of the most unusual geography we have seen to date. We then crossed the border back into the US and down into Skagway. I didn't miss many turnouts to take pictures, and hopefully will get them posted before we leave here tomorrow.
Our campground is a paved parking lot with water and electric and paid wifi overlooking the harbor here in Skagway. When we arrived there were four cruise ships in port, and the town was overflowing with people. All four departed during the evening and one pulled in this morning, so town shouldn't be too crowded today. Which, by the way, we are headed to shortly for lunch and some shopping. That brings us up to date, so see you later with some pics.
Till then, take care, have fun and be safe.
Ron & Barb
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Valdez Cruise
These are a few of the pics from our cold, rainy, windy Sunday cruise on the yacht Lu-Lu Belle. The captain built and maintains this yacht by himself. The interior is mahogany and teak and there are oriental rugs on the floor.
This is the Peter Pan fish processing plant next to our campground.
Leaving harbor.
This is about as close as you can get to the Valdez oil terminal since 9/11/01. This is where the famous Alaska oil pipeline ends after its 800 mile trip from Prudhoe Bay.
These are pictures of the shoreline as we went through the narrows. Even on a foggy, rainy day, it's beautiful.
Just another eagle that seems to be under attack from a crow.
Bridal veil falls #353.
These porpoises seemed to be toying with the boat by swimming across the bow and then diving out of sight. We were cruising at about 22 knots. They can swim over 35 knots.
Steller seals seemed to be everywhere along this stretch of shoreline. They're funny to watch.
I finally got my whale tail shot. I missed his first dive, but about 5 minutes later he surfaced again. It was raining pretty hard and my pants were soaked and the air temp was 41 degrees, but I perservered and got this as he dove for the second time. We waited for another 10 minutes before we decided to leave the area. I was glad to get inside to get warm.
As we approached small ice floes, this eagle took off from one of them.
The captain skillfully navigated through the ever increasing number of icebergs till we were surrounded. These had been shed by the Columbia Glacier which we could not see because of the weather conditions.
The captain had his two crew girls take photos of each of us with our own cameras with the icebergs in the background. What a thrill!
And finally, the captain of the Lu-Lu Belle, Captain Fred. His narration during the cruise was fantastic. He made an otherwise lousy day into a fun and memorable one.
This is the Peter Pan fish processing plant next to our campground.
Leaving harbor.
This is about as close as you can get to the Valdez oil terminal since 9/11/01. This is where the famous Alaska oil pipeline ends after its 800 mile trip from Prudhoe Bay.
These are pictures of the shoreline as we went through the narrows. Even on a foggy, rainy day, it's beautiful.
Just another eagle that seems to be under attack from a crow.
Bridal veil falls #353.
These porpoises seemed to be toying with the boat by swimming across the bow and then diving out of sight. We were cruising at about 22 knots. They can swim over 35 knots.
Steller seals seemed to be everywhere along this stretch of shoreline. They're funny to watch.
I finally got my whale tail shot. I missed his first dive, but about 5 minutes later he surfaced again. It was raining pretty hard and my pants were soaked and the air temp was 41 degrees, but I perservered and got this as he dove for the second time. We waited for another 10 minutes before we decided to leave the area. I was glad to get inside to get warm.
As we approached small ice floes, this eagle took off from one of them.
The captain skillfully navigated through the ever increasing number of icebergs till we were surrounded. These had been shed by the Columbia Glacier which we could not see because of the weather conditions.
The captain had his two crew girls take photos of each of us with our own cameras with the icebergs in the background. What a thrill!
And finally, the captain of the Lu-Lu Belle, Captain Fred. His narration during the cruise was fantastic. He made an otherwise lousy day into a fun and memorable one.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Wasilla to Valdez
Here are the pictures from our trip from Wasilla to Valdez on Saturday, June 20. These were taken along the Richardson Highway. The road condition was not good with many frost heaves. Frost heaves are areas of the road that have sunk after having been pushed up by the frost. What it creates is a dip in the road. Some are short and not very deep and some are, well, deep. They usually run across the entire road, so they are unavoidable. The only thing you can do is to slow down when you see them or the little red flags that mark most of them. Some places there are so many little red flags you would think they are the state flower. Occasionally, you don't see one or you see it too late and you do a severe suspension compression test. I did a few.
Anyway, back to the pics. (By the way, for those who haven't figured it out yet, double click on the picture to enlarge it.)
We began to see fireweed springing up all along the road and in the river beds.
The mountain scenery also was different than we had seen before.
You probably think this shot is a mistake, but if you look carefuly you can see an eagle up there. This is quite common.
And it seems you cannot travel anywhere in the state without seeing a glacier.
After a climb up to about 2700 feet we came to Thompson Pass. From here you descend into Valdez. However, the pass is frequently closed due to snow. Here are some pics from the top.
Just another glacier.
The cloud/fog coming off this mountain looked like a volcano blowing out the side.
After descending about 2700 feet, you enter Keystone Canyon.
Here is what's left of a train tunnel started many years ago. Read the sign for details.
Here is bridal veil falls #352 if I remember correctly.
This is called Horsetail falls.
Tell me what you think of this pic. Look closely.
That eagle joined another in a tree just in front of the motorhome and posed for me.
It was about 9:30 in the evening when we pulled into Sea Otter RV Park directly across from the Valdez oil terminal. We were tired from a tough drive fighting frost heaves, and stopping many times to take pics.
Next up is our tour on the yacht Lu-Lu Belle.
See you later.
Ron & Barb
Anyway, back to the pics. (By the way, for those who haven't figured it out yet, double click on the picture to enlarge it.)
We began to see fireweed springing up all along the road and in the river beds.
The mountain scenery also was different than we had seen before.
You probably think this shot is a mistake, but if you look carefuly you can see an eagle up there. This is quite common.
And it seems you cannot travel anywhere in the state without seeing a glacier.
After a climb up to about 2700 feet we came to Thompson Pass. From here you descend into Valdez. However, the pass is frequently closed due to snow. Here are some pics from the top.
Just another glacier.
The cloud/fog coming off this mountain looked like a volcano blowing out the side.
After descending about 2700 feet, you enter Keystone Canyon.
Here is what's left of a train tunnel started many years ago. Read the sign for details.
Here is bridal veil falls #352 if I remember correctly.
This is called Horsetail falls.
Tell me what you think of this pic. Look closely.
That eagle joined another in a tree just in front of the motorhome and posed for me.
It was about 9:30 in the evening when we pulled into Sea Otter RV Park directly across from the Valdez oil terminal. We were tired from a tough drive fighting frost heaves, and stopping many times to take pics.
Next up is our tour on the yacht Lu-Lu Belle.
See you later.
Ron & Barb
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